The capacitor callouts are spot on, but there’s one quick distinction that can save you from swapping parts blindly.
When it’s humming, put your hand near the motor shaft or rear fan cover (power off first). If the shaft spins freely by hand and doesn’t feel gritty or stiff, that almost always points to a failed start capacitor. The motor wants to turn, it just can’t get that initial kick. Two years is actually right in the window where caps sometimes fail early, especially if the pump runs hot or the voltage isn’t perfectly clean.
If the shaft feels tight or won’t turn smoothly, then the hum is the motor trying to start against resistance. That’s usually debris in the impeller or a bearing starting to seize. In that case, replacing the capacitor won’t fix it and you risk cooking the windings if you keep trying to start it.
One more thing people overlook, don’t let it sit there humming for long. That’s high current with no rotation and it can burn the motor fast. If it hums for more than a few seconds, shut it down and troubleshoot.
If it were mine, I’d check shaft spin first, then inspect the impeller for anything jammed, then replace the start capacitor if everything spins free. That order usually finds the answer without throwing money at it.